Tuesday, April 7, 2020

Nighthawks: Third Placeless


via GIPHY

I might have learned of Nighthawks by Edward Hopper from the board game Masterpiece. This game involved auctioning works of art, and was mildly educational since the back of each game card included at least the title and author. Each edition of the game featured paintings from.a different real museum, and the 1976 edition included only works from the Art Institute of Chicago. I knew nothing about that museum that begins Route 66, nor about the college housed inside its walls, nor that my own child would eventually be educated as an artist at that college!

Wherever I first saw the image of the Nighthawks, I know where I was when I first saw the original painting. It was part of a 2007 Edward Hopper exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. I am pretty certain that something else had drawn us to the exhibit, because when I saw this on the wall, I was stopped in my tracks. And then I was drawn to it. Drawn into it. I knew not to get close enough to set off the electronic alarm, but I think I did get close enough to draw the attention of a human guard. I was mesmerized. It measures 33-1/8 by 60 inches -- large for a painting, but not as large as I remember it. I felt as if I could lean against the glass, and somehow push through it.

I never noticed, as the AIC notes point out, that the Hopper deliberately avoided any reference to an entrance. This was part of Hopper's genius in drawing the viewer into the scene, while excluding us from it. Hopper also populated the café with four individuals who were essentially alone together in this space. Years later, Ray Oldenburg and other social critics would include cafés as typical of what he called a "third place" -- neither home nor work.

Hopper's original nighthawks do not exhibit the conviviality that Oldenburg and others typically associate with those third places, but they are drawn to a place that is optional. Those on the far side of counter have no obligation -- familial, financial, or otherwise -- to be there. Engagement with other visitors is also optional, and in Hopper's glimpse it is eschewed. But clearly, it is what the visitor in the GIF above craves. I do not know when this parody was created, but it certainly resonates with the current company-craving gestalt of a world in various stages of quarantine.

NOTE: Strange as this will seem to some readers, I use "the visitor in the GIF" because it only slowly occurred to me that this is John Travolta, in a scene from Pulp Fiction. In my defense, I saw that movie only once, a very long time ago. He looks confused, and in fact this is a popular meme known simply as Confused Travolta. Thanks to students in my Spring 2020 seminar Secret Life of Coffee for helping me figure this out. During a Zoom meeting, of course.

Lagniappe

I post this parody because of the geographies it so deftly brings to mind -- the geographies of coffee shops and community in more ordinary times. I post it for the benefit of my coffee students, who mainly study where coffee comes from, but who also analyze the places it goes to.

The rest of the posts in this blog relate to cafés that were -- by definition -- open when my students or I went to visit them. In late March and April of almost every year since 2007, students have told me and each other about the third places" they have visited in their hometowns or far away.

They have tried to figure out what made them successful (which they had to be to some extent, to be open when a well-financed franchise is never more than a mile or so away) and how they fit into their neighborhoods.

Perhaps my first encounter with the original painting captivated me so deeply because it was within a couple months of the first dozen or so of these student presentations. I have enjoyed hundreds of them since then -- including reviews of cafés that are since defunct.

This spring, my students have a different assignment: they are writing about cafés elsewhere (each has been assigned a state outside of New England), because their research perforce does not include. site visit. They will be learning about the cafes remotely -- as will students in my Coffee Week summer class if we are able to offer it. In many cases, the ways that the cafés find a new role in their communities -- with some combination of curbside pickup, delivery, charitable work or virtual gathering -- will be an important part of the story they tell.

Inauguration 2021 Update 

Inevitably ... 


And Campaign 2024 Update 

(With apologies for reposting an image of the most over-exposed person of our times.) 

During the 2024 campaign for election to the office of President of the United States, a certain former occupant became a little desperate and began exaggerating even more than usual about the number of people supporting his campaign and attending his events. 

He had the support of "hundreds of governors" out of a possible 50. Crowds at his rallies were 10, 20, or even 30 times the size of those attending the events of his rivals -- as if arenas that could hold a half million "fans" even exist. 

All of this led to some meming, and one result is a variation on Nighthawks that I call Nighthawk. As with all such rapidly-spreading imagery, I do not know the artist who deserves the credit. 



Monday, May 13, 2019

Golden Apple Chicago Diner

Recommended Listening from the Coffee Maven
24 Hours at the Golden Apple, This American Life
Painting by Steve Connell
My interest in the geography of coffee began at the global scale, in the places from which coffee originates and the patterns of its movement from seed to cup. Those who know my coffee work are aware that my emphasis is on the environmental and social impacts of these geographies.

But readers of this blog -- and students in the second-year seminar that produces most of its posts -- know that I am also interested in the neighborhood-scale geography of coffee shops. I use the term to refer to a variety of independent, coffee-forward businesses, inclusive of those that curate excellent coffee and those that treat it as a utility in service of breakfast. Over the past decade, students in my seminar course have told their classmates and me about a few hundred places that span the entire coffee-shop gamut.

I have not been to the Golden Apple diner in Chicago, though I sit just a mile or so from it as I write this, but I suspect that it falls in the latter of these categories, and despite my desire for a world full of ethical coffee, I'm OK with that for now.

Way back in 2000, a team of some of my favorite journalists spent 24 hours trying to interview every person who came in the door. The result is a full hour of exquisite first-hand accounts of what makes places like this hubs of their respective communities. From the adorable to the pathetic and even unlikeable, a cross-section of the neighborhood as diverse as the neighborhood itself comes through the doors.

Settle in with a nice cuppa and give yourself the gift of an hour of excellent radio: 24 Hours at the Golden Apple, recently rebroadcast on This American Life.

Lagniappe: Chicago is, of course, full of great diners, of which I have enjoyed a few. Even when hotels include an alleged breakfast buffet in the price of a room, we usually prefer to find such places. But this year I found Ray's Bucktown B&B, where I have enjoyed phenomenal breakfasts every morning of three different stays while visiting my kid in the city.

Saturday, July 28, 2018

Dick's Restaurant

A Coffee Maven Review

On a drive from Port Hawkesbury on Cape Breton to Derby Line in Vermont and Quebec, we had a nice stay at a tidy lakeside inn just outside of Farmington, Maine. The place was lovely but we wanted more than the included continental breakfast. Coffee had been offered in styrofoam cups, so we set off on toward the northern border, with our eyes peeled for a diner.

Photo: Yelp
We found a newish, trendy-looking place when we arrived in the paper-mill town of Mexico, but on the door found that all-too common and sad obituary of small businesses: a handwritten note that simply said, "Sorry, closed."

We drove just a few blocks further when we spied Dick's Restaurant in the center of the town. From the outside, it had the look of a café that is more saloon than diner. We had walked out of such a place elsewhere in Maine on the first morning of our trip, and so at first I continued to drive. Then I remembered how few options we had seen so far (that is, zero), so we turned around and entered.

And we were very glad we did. I did not get a photo, but picture a rather large interior in several sections with a lot of pine paneling and wooden furniture and you will have a good idea. Picture a table full of older ladies talking quietly and a couple of tables of older men talking loudly, and you will have an even better idea. (I'm not sure why, but in our study of diners, we have found more than once that men of a certain age who are regulars will take separate tables and then talk across open air to each other. We call them "Old Man Kelliher" guys, not because that is their name, but because the two who haunt a diner in our town analyze each bit of the day's gossip in terms of what Old Man Kelliher would have said about it.

So yes, the place has atmosphere. And it has very friendly, efficient service and really good food. I had corned-beef hash just as crispity as it ought to be. My favorite librarian was considering several options, but had to choose the plate called Pam's Special -- after the owner -- because she very rarely finds things with her name out in the world. Xará!

As I commented elsewhere, very few places have excellent food and excellent coffee, and this does not quite qualify as an exception. But the coffee is definitely better than standard diner brew, and this Coffee Maven had two cups, no cream. I did find specialty coffee a bit later in the drive.

Monday, July 23, 2018

Fancy Pants

A Coffee Maven Review

During our long-awaited visit to Bridgewater, Nova Scotia (for our Bridgewaters Project), we explored lunch and dinner places, and found a pub we very much enjoyed, because of its friendly staff and its large deck overlooking the LaHave River.

But very much out of character -- and in contrast to my approach in St. John's immediately prior -- I did not seek coffee places. This is because we were in a bed & breakfast -- River Reflections -- with absolutely amazing breakfast food and quite respectable coffee.

It was not until our last morning -- faced with a long ride to Cape Breton -- that I sought an after-breakfast coffee. Translation for those who are innocent of my Coffee Maven ways: an after-coffee coffee. 

We had noticed Fancy Pants almost directly across the street from that pub, and I decided it would be our last stop on the way out of town.

I should stop here to introduce a finding -- more of a bald assertion -- based on my extensive field research over the past decade. It is summarized in the following Venn Diagram, which has been on my mind for many months, but which I finally got around to creating for you, Dear Reader.

As mentioned above, I stopped at Fancy Pants after a scrumptious breakfast, so I was not in a position formally to test my hunch that this might very well be one of those rare places that is both great for coffee and great for breakfast. I can verify the coffee directly - it was delicious, and the employees knew something about it. The breakfast I can infer only from the general atmosphere, the signage about local and organic ingredients, and a very important clue: indispensable cast-iron skillets on the stovetop.

So in our last few minutes in Bridgewater, Nova Scotia, Fancy Pants gave us yet another reason to return some day.

No 9

A Coffee Maven Review

First, a word from John:


We were absolutely enchanted by Lunenburg, Nova Scotia -- a place so charming that it is the only place in North America where an entire town is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Those who know the geography of coffee shops will understand that in a place this precious is likely to have some excellent coffee.


Among the many promising options No. 9 Coffee Bar got our attention, and after a carriage ride, a lunch at one of the top do-not-miss places in the country, a visit to a distillery (that was actually our first stop), and a considerable amount of walking, it was to No. 9 that we repaired for some iced coffee.

We were delighted, not only by the ethically-sourced and delicious coffee, but also by the wonderfully cetacean decor, in recognition of Lunenburg's whaling heritage. 


Rogue Coffee

A Coffee Maven Review

Coffee has made me a morning person ... and not the kind who cannot function before coffee: it is the opposite of that. At home, I get up first and make the coffee. As those who know me might imagine, it is a process.

When we travel, it is my job to find some alternative to hotel coffee, which is almost universally undrinkable. We call it "foraging" but it really is an internet-enhanced activity. During a recent stay at a lovely hotel by the harbor in St. John's -- where we liked the wine but did not sample the coffee -- our strollings about and my online research led to quite a few options.

Among three strong contenders, I had convinced myself that Rogue Coffee would be the best. I set out to what I thought was the correct location along a steep, narrow side street, but somehow I could not find it. I was almost ready to go to my second choice (yes, I had a ranked list in mind), but I could smell really good coffee, as if it were coming from one of the closed-up clothing stores nearby. I was confused as I worked my way back down the hill.

Glancing in an alley I had somehow missed, I noticed some party lights a hundred yards or so away. As I got closer, I realized that this was Rogue Coffee!


I learned something new about my favorite brewer -- I always associate the Chemex with Springfield, Massachusetts, but it was really born in New York City -- and had a nice chat with the owner. She is passionate about good coffee. I was able to take a couple of delicious cupfuls back to our hotel, and feel good about supporting the farmers in the process.

Downtown St. John's has a lot of decent coffee shops; I am pretty confident that I found the best one.

In a neighborhood full of food and beverage options, this is a gem!

Sunday, July 22, 2018

Moose Muck Coffee House

A Coffee Maven Review


As we wended our way through rural Maine -- after a nice breakfast in Mexico -- we found a café with good coffee and a strong sense of humor near the convergence of streams and mountain roadways. (Note the oxbow lake in the southwest corner of the map above.)
Curb appeal is very important for independent cafés; I know some really good places that have closed because they did not pay attention to this. Moose Muck is the opposite -- this Coffee Maven was drawn right in!
The Moose Muck Coffee House makes playful use of its name, including a signature drink of coffee with a shot of espresso. The coffee is locally roasted and delicious, though the staff do not know much about its origins. Bonus: Equal Exchange chocolate is available. Oddly, the shop has no web site and its Facebook page has been shut down. That is odd for a café of this kind in 2018.
Completing the moose motif.